Eager to return to the ’near side’ of Malaysian Borneo from Singapore after our first trip to Bako National Park, we made a short visit to the Permai Rainforest in Sarawak (near Kuching), nestled in the vertiginous Santubong peninsula, sister to Bako.
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A few established trails meander through this (mostly) intact rainforest, providing peaceful encounters with many iconic species of monkeys, birds, plants, reptiles and insects, as well as a few natural water features, including a small waterfall and the ‘blue pool.’
We came equipped with lite OM System cameras in hopes of photographing some beautiful inhabitants of this forest, and we were not disappointed with the encounters during two forays:
Monkeys
Silvered leaf monkeys (lutung, langur) (Trachypithecus cristatus) tamely occupied canopies above the Permai Resort pathways, foraging fresh leaves in peace while calmly watching the ground primates like us pass by.
Equally present were proboscis monkeys (Nasalis larvatus; reportedly also going by monyet belanda in casual Malaysian, because of either a perceived resemblance, or a particularly special interest in this species exhibited by European visitors?)
The females and young watched us cautiously from above with looks of measured intelligence, while the larger male busily gorged himself on low-lying fresh leaves not far from us or the ground.
The macaques also made a characteristically rowdy appearance, toppling a large rubbish bin and stealing an empty garbage from the park visitor centre, in protest of few offerings that day.
Reptiles
One of the most reported species in the Permai area (on iNaturalist) is the blue-eyed anglehead lizard (Gonocephalus liogaster), explained perhaps by its highly photogenic colors, scale and pose.
Coming in at numbers two and three on the ‘most reported’ list are the Bornean round-eyed gecko (Cnemaspis kendallii) and the north Philippine temple pitviper (Tropidolaemus subannulatus), which we were also ’lucky’ enough to spot:
Dira also spotted a turtle poking its nose out of its water fort in a water feature (not pictured), which might have been a Malayan softshell turtle like this one.
Insects
A diversity of insects populates this forest, and we managed to catch a few of them in attractive positions. Right along the resort walkways, we found a stick insect, a broad-nosed weevil, mantis, robber fly, carpenter bees, longhorn beetle, scale insect and more.
The fascinating eyes of this iridescent robber fly (Maira aenea?) were worth a closer look:
Upon visiting the restrooms at the resort office, Dira found them occupied by this less commonly reported large and colorful fruit-piercing moth, (Eudocima discrepans), whose leaf-like camouflage might normally render them invisible in spite of the size, and whose larval caterpillar stage appears equally impressive.
I invested only enough time for a quick photo with a hand torch for this moth, as we were due to explore the nearby Rainforest World Music Festival (info below).
Birds
A white-rumped shama (Copsychus malabaricus) could be heard happily serenading the treehouses in the morning, and we heard the clear and frisky calls of a ‘racket-tailed’ drongo (Dicrurus paradiseus) just a short distance up one of the Permai trekking paths.
The respect for these beautiful bird species (and others) here provides an important refuge for those threatened by risks of potential capture and habitat loss elsewhere.
Location Info
The trails here are easily followed and mildly sporty, with plenty of exposed rocks and roots, and a consistent helping of downed trees. Hand lines adorn key spots, and small rope bridges provide for dry stream crossings.
Time estimates provided by the welcome office for the Permai Rainforest Resort take into account the condition of these trails, as well as time likely taken to enjoy the scenery.
The weekend of our visit was not only during the ‘summer’ solstice, but also the date for this year’s Rainforest World Music Festival, which we also happily attended in the evening, and could hear softly while exploring the Permai rainforest trails during the mornings and midday.
The Permai eco-‘resort’ and Santubong Peninsula offered us a pleasant blend of quietly intact ecosystems, human comforts, and culturally enriching entertainment, which we hope and trust will continue to maintain a healthy balance of wilderness, culture, and carefully controlled but highly available access for local and visiting peoples into the future.