The windward seaside
We were fortunate to afford a week to briefly explore the oceanside route of the Kii Peninsula, graced by steep forests, wild sea cliffs, interesting new wildlife encounters, and beautiful shrines coexisting in harmony with nature.
Rugged above and below
Much weather comes from the sea. On our first day we boarded a capable dive boat in spectacular Kushimoto with a strong contingent of divers for “sports day,” evidently a holiday here.
Skies were bright blue and clean, quite warm, and brisk wind blew from the sea, causing a lively chop to punctuate our activities. Fortunately the rugged rocky topography of the area sheltered our chosen reef from the full power of the open ocean. Much amusement ensued for us as we perused dramatic rock formations alongside local sea life.
We stayed at the large hotel in town, which included a spa/onsen, seaside views, and an impressive breakfast buffet. Here I noticed the first of countless black kite raptors that thrive on this coast, presumably due to the abundance of fresh prey from the land and sea.
Beyond an isthmus that forms the center of town we found a spectacular cape exposed to the ocean on all sides, with rocky cliffs weathered constantly by the vigorous wave action of deep blue seas. Here the near religious connection of the region to the maritime environment is unmistakeable.
The southernmost point of Honshu is here, with a sporty path out onto the sea cliffs for those feeling up to the adventure. Many youth joined us there at sunset, as well as some avid fishers who picked out ideally sheltered seats low on the cliffs.
We also witnessed a dramatic struggle between a blue rock-thrush and a defiant mantis, a cliffside battle lasting several minutes before the hungry bird broke the defenses to earn sustenance for itself, or perhaps their mate or young.
This was a quite tough photograph in the shade of dusk, at a high ISO and fast shutter speed (Pro-Capture SH2) handheld at a distance of 10 metres! Fortunately the sporty OM System 300mm f/4 prime lens awarded me usable captures.
Waterfalls and monk trails
A beautifully fresh morning brought us up into the mountains to find the magnificent Nachi Waterfall, beside which lies an important holy complex of shrines, gardens and monuments that blend perfectly into the surrounding nature of the hillsides.
The famous Monks’ Trail (Kumano Kodō, 熊野古道) reaches here via a network that spans the whole Kii Peninsula, serving as a meditative pilgrimage for those prepared to endure the distances.
The undersea jungle
Our next stop was Owase (尾鷲市), in the Mie Prefecture. This region is economically productive through sustainable natural resources above and below water. A blend of timberlands and forest preserves decorate the steep landscape of oceanside valley systems, and a longstanding local fishery rules the sea. Numerous natural harbors shelter a vast fleet of small but mighty fishing vessels that can be operated by small crews in the treacherous and beautiful seasides of this area.
With the prevalence of modern high quality underwater cameras, a beautiful diversity of temperate soft coral ecosystems have been revealed here as well. Blessed by a balance of land and sea inputs, and powerful ocean transport corridors for marine diversity, the underwater reefs here offer a great many colors and species to behold.
We were fortunate to join the local dive shop for a look at what inhabits the minireefs just outside of the Kajika Harbor, and were surprised to find quite exotic new species (for us) just metres away from the seawalls. A collection of vibrant coral species decorated a large concrete artificial reef at ~15-20 metres depth, and lush soft corals bloomed from shallow trusses.
We can’t wait to return in order to see what else lies out beyond, gracing the endless rugged sea cliffs.
Hidden routes
On our way back from diving, a winding forested side-route appeared on the map. The gate was open!
It appeared to be a possible forestry road, but perfectly paved, marked and guardrailed. A wild grouse-like(?) fowl fluttered out of view, along with a couple of wild forest chickens (we think). A small spirited deer bounded ahead.
Earlier in the trip, we even saw a baby forest boar foraging on the roadside. Occasionally the view open to reveal deep views of the complex coastline cliffs below.
Our reward for getting deep into the local ecosystem was our nighttime stay at a luxurious traditional ryokan with a wooden onsen and elaborate local meals, which we found tucked away down a small humble road in the marine countryside. On the last day we asked for a ’lite’ breakfast, which would humble many dinners!
Ise and Iga
After some brief weather, we arrived to the Ise Jingu shrine complex under perfectly clear autumn skies. The highly respected ancient trees here embody the significance of millennia of culture balanced with nature.
Several photogenic fungal species were blooming with the season, in long-term symbiosis with the mature forest.
The finale of our loop was Iga, home of the ninja 🥷
Here we visited the ninja museum, and a prominent castle overlooking the city. Here more mushrooms were bursting forth, and the beautiful aroma of the ‘sweet olive’ blossoms blessed refreshing airs.
It happened to be that an important festival also occurred during our visit, the Ueno Tenjin Festival. The streets were full of food vendors, and a procession of demons was chased around the inner city by elaborate giant wooden carts (danjiri) filled with children playing festive music, presumably to drive away evil spirits.
I mustn’t fail to mention a gorgeous visit to the Soni Highlands, reached via a deep river gorge above Iga. Here we enjoyed a country style meal and a scenic walk through fields of natural grasses.
